I didn’t mean to strand the elders in Peru – let’s at least get them back to New York before leaving their story!
Monday, Agosto 16, 1926
Mollendo, Peru – We secured our passage to New York on the S.S. “Essequibo”: berths 56 and 57. We each secured a “Vicuna” bed spread. Before noon we had our baggage inspected and went aboard. Had a very good lunch on ship although both of us were a trifle inclined to be sea sick. Just 9 mo and 2 days since we embarked at New York for Buenos Aires. It seems very good to get started home again. Sailed all afternoon in sight of land. Very desolate but rugged and beautiful shore.
Tuesday, Agosto 17, 1926
Aboard “Essequibo” off coast – Goodnight’s rest and feeling fine today. Beautiful sailing all day. Stopped in evening at Pisco to load cotton. Did not go ashore. The shore line of South America continues dead and desolate. This West Coast certainly looks like it had been made and then forgotten. Looks like it never had rained. I read a great deal of Spanish, but retired early.
Wednesday, Agosto 18, 1926
Aboard “Essequibo” off Peru – We awoke this morning in port of Callo, Peru, and after breakfast we went ashore and on up to Lima, the capital of Peru. Is a very old city, 230,000 people. Visited Church built by Pizzaro and saw he bones of this conqueror in a glass coffin, in this same church. Called on American Consul and through him on the Ministerio de Justicia but did not get to see the Minister, but saw his Secretary who assured us there was perfect religious liberty in Peru. Catholic Church, however, is State Church and receives subvention. We visited a museum and saw much gold and silver of Incas and pre-Incan civilizations, much gold leaf. Very interesting.
Thursday, Agosto 19, 1926
Aboard “Essequibo” off Peru – Had a fair night’s rest. Weather still very cloudy, and mist falling this morning. This is due to the fact that we are traveling in the cool Humbolt current. We stopped early at the little port of Sallaverra and were delayed till 2.30 pm before we got started again. Here the ocean swells were very high and the ship rocked a great deal. however the whole day was very pleasant. I am surprised at the coolness of the weather so near the Equator. But as we leave this current I think we will find it very hot.
Friday, Agosto 20, 1926
Aboard “Essequibo,” Peru – Soon after getting up we stopped at the little port of Paita. Stayed till noon, loading and unloading freight and passengers. At this point we left the cloudy weather we have been in since we left Mollendo. The sea was beautiful all afternoon. Soon after leaving this port we passed the most westerly point of South America and started sailing straight north. We saw hundreds of whales spouting and several of them came up within 100 yards of the ship. In mid afternoon it turned much warmer, making it much more pleasant.
Saturday, Agosto 21, 1926
Aboard “Essequibo,” off Equador – Good night. Very much warmer this morning but not excessively hot. Crossed Equator at 1 pm. In sight of coast, till about 3 pm. Many trees visible, great contrast to coast further South. Made no stops today. Sailed about due north. Cloudy most of the day. Sea very beautiful with no roughness. Saw many strange fish. Terrapins, sharks, flying fish, etc. I have a ravenous appetite and fear I am gaining weight.
Sunday, Agosto 22, 1926
Aboard “Essequibo,” off Equador and Panama – Good night. Weather fine, warm but not hot. Several light showers. No land in sight today. I passed most of the day reading “Dan Quijote de la Mancha” in Spanish. We are nearing the Canal and ship officer says we will get in at 4 am tomorrow, and tomorrow we will go through. Will be a great experience.
Monday, Agosto 23, 1926
Balboa, and Cristoval – We awoke this morning in the harbor at Pacific entrance of Canal. Many islands. Tropical verdure to water’s edge. Started through at 7.30. Three locks to raise to level of Gatun Lake 96 feet. Very wonderful. Canal is 40 miles long, 500 to 1000 feet wide at top and 300 to 650 at bottom. Takes 8 hrs to go through. Through locks 2 hrs. Three locks also on Pacific side. The tropical verdure is past description. Gatun Lake has hundreds of small islands all covered to water’s edge with trees and vines. Low hills on either side, also covered same. Looks like imaginations and dreams I have had of fairy land. While cross lake we had lunch served on deck. After getting through our ship docked till next day at noon, so we went ashore and saw city of Cristoval. 99 per cent negro. Black as Darkest Africa.
Tuesday, Agosto 24, 1926
Cristobal, Canal Zone – Passed a hot night. It rained practically all day, greatly retarding the coffee loading, so we did not sail till after 8 pm. Should have left at 11 am. Because of the rain could not get around, so stayed on board and read most of the day. Many of our passengers got off at Colon, but we also took in about as many new ones. The lights on the shore line were very beautiful as we pulled out.
Wednesday, Agosto 25, 1926
Aboard “Essequibo,” Caribbean Sea – Very warm this morning and we passed a poor night. Sea like glass this morning. A little more breeze in the afternoon but it continued very warm all day. Our room is not on the windy side so we get no air at night. I read considerable in “Don Quijote.” Nothing of importance happened all day.
Thursday, Agosto 26, 1926
Aboard “Essequibo” Caribbean Sea – Very hot night and poor rest. Hot all day, but a very beautiful sea. Color deepest blue and very beautiful. I read considerable from “Don Quijote.” Nothing of note happened all day.
Friday, Agosto 27, 1926
Aboard Essequibo & at Havana, Cuba – Got up after a very hot and uncomfortable night. Before noon we sighted Island of Cuba. Arrived at Havana at 8.15 pm, but at first permission to go ashore was not given. After fooling around for an hr and a half the order was withdrawn and those who wished went ashore. Being then so late we did not go, much as I wished to. We have had no bad weather nor bad sea.
Saturday, Agosto 28, 1926
Aboard “Essequibo,” off Florida – Not so hot today. Had better night last night. Weather and sea continue smooth. Passed the day reading “Don Quijote” and writing rhymes about Purser etc. At night there was a costume ball and supper. Some very good costumes. Day of very little interest. At night could see the lights of some cities on Florida coast.
Sunday, Agosto 29, 1926
Aboard “Essequibo” – Quite warm all day. Sea looked like it had been oiled, so smooth and glassy. Saw some sharks and flying fish. No religious services of any kind on the boat today. Captain and Purser not that kind. The first officer, however, is a very fine fellow, and really should be in command. The usual dance was had at night. I read “Don Quijote.”
Monday, Agosto 30,1 926
Aboard “Essequibo” – Some cooler. Saw distinctly where the warm Gulf Stream meets the cool ocean stream from the north. Gulf water dark blue, other green. Nothing of importance happened.
Tuesday, Agosto 31, 1926
Aboard “Essequibo” – Woke up in sight of land. Beautiful sight coming into New York Harbor. We docked at pier 43 and were met by some missionaries. Also Sister Ballard. Went to Mission Headquarters. Bro. Roberts out but missionaries received us kindly. Glad to get back. Bro. Roberts came in late in the evening. We had no trouble passing Customs house.
(end of this series)
It’s interesting that he writes the days of the week in English and the months in Spanish. With all the reading and translating in Spanish, he must have been very fluent.
I’m sorry to get to the end of this one. Thank you very much for this, Ardis.
I maybe should have noted earlier that he records this in a diary with the dates already printed in Spanish, without his needing to write them — I transcribed them as they appeared.
Yeah, I’m going to miss this one, too. The entries (limited by the space reserved to each day in the printed diary) were long enough to give fascinating detail without becoming tedious. Opening this mission was something new in our experience.
This was a great diary. Thanks, Ardis.
I’m glad you enjoyed it.
I thought I had missed the final instalment of this series, or that it had just ended abruptly in South America, so delighted to read the concluding part! It has been one of the most fascinating series you have posted, Ardis; thank you for sharing it.
I really didn’t mean to break off so abruptly, and am glad you saw the wrap-up, Alison.
Thank you so much for sharing this! Oh how I wish I might have had the company of literature like Don Quixote at some points on my mission…
What a great description of the Canal Zone. This is pre-Paddington Bear, so no quips about darkest Peru, but he did manage to use that adjective in regards to the city of Cristoval (Cristóbal, Colón) which was a surprise. The online encyclopedia says it was founded during the construction of the Canal and populated by West Indian laborers. It looks like he saw it at its heyday.
Anyway, the details and storyline have been interesting in this diary, and it’s been great to read the mentions of the Kullick family, since you so notably told that story long ago (Herta Klara Kullick: Key to a Continent).
I’ve never sailed into New York Harbor, but it’s possible to get a pretty good approximation of the view from the Belt Parkway in Brooklyn. And I agree–it’s a spectacular view.
Pier 43, where they docked, no longer exists, but would have been at about Christopher Street in New York. It would have been a relatively short drive by car to the mission home in Brooklyn (25 minutes to travel the 5.5 miles now–would traffic have been better or worse 90 years ago?) Or did they schlep their steamer trunks over to Spring Street and take the subway? I doubt it!
Great series, Ardis. What’s next?
I dunno yet, Mark. I’m looking around.
Such a wonderful series. Thank you!