(Previous installment)

I’m very apt to have misread/misspelled many of the place names mentioned in these entries, and welcome corrections by readers.

Sunday, Agosto 1, 1926

Atocha and Uyuni, Bolivia – I spent a poor night, on account of my cold and also the high elevation. My heart kicked up considerable trouble all night. Our train did not leave till 2.30 p.m. so we had more time to study the Indians and the llamas. It was plaza day and Indians from all round brought in their wares for sale. Some small apples and a few oranges being all the fruit, but they had different grains, and their small mountain potatoes. Here we saw the dried frozen potato on the market. We left at 2.45 p.m. for Uyuni and for a number of miles passed through a country eroded like Bryce
Canon. Then over a great barren salt plateau to Uyuni. Here we transferred to sleeper for La Paz. On the way we saw many llamas and a few vicunas.

Monday, Agosto 2, 1926

La Paz, Bolivia – I had a fair night’s rest on the train. Early we passed the City of Oruro: 30,000 people, mostly Indians. Mining industry. We traveled on high plateau about 13,000 feet till we began to drop down to La Paz. Indian ranches and villages all the way. Houses built round of adobe and brought to a cone-like bee-hive. Some straw thatched. All fine looking Indians. They have many llamas and sheep, and as we neared La Paz we saw that they were raising barley, corn and potatoes on the side hills, sometimes at an elevation of 14,000 to 15,000 feet. We came to the edge of the table land and looked down on what night have been a hundred Bryce Canons to where La Paz lay in the bottom of a canon 1500 feet below us, but still 12,000 feet high. From this point also0 we could see three of the highest peaks in America, all over 21,000 feet high. I will have to give their names in another place.

Tuesday, August 3, 1926

La Paz, Bolivia – We got a room at the Hotel Parias at 9 Bolivianos each for room and meals. About $3.00. I did not sleep well, suppose it was because of high altitude, 12,000 feet. We transferred our trunks, bought our tickets to Mollendo all ready to leave tomorrow. We called on the American Consul, who sent a man to introduce us to an official in the Ministerio de Governacion y Cultos, Senor Jose A. Terragas, Director del Archivo del M.M. de R.E. This gentleman received us very graciously and assured us that not only would we have full freedom to start missionary work, but that the Gov. would be glad to have us do so. We gave him a Book of Mormon and a “Mormonismo.” He thought I must be a Spaniard, by the way I talked Spanish. We had our passports vised at Peruvian Consulate. The officer in charge also thought I was of some Spanish-speaking nation. We visited more of the city and found it to be an interesting city, indeed.

Wednesday, Agosto 4, 1926

La Paz and Guaqui, Bolivia – We left La Paz at 8 a.m. by the Guaqui and La Paz Ry. The ascent was made by a powerful electric motor pushing three cars and we raised 1500 feet in a distance of5 miles. From the “Alto” we went steam engine and arrived at Guaqui at about 12 m. and took a room for four Bolivianos per day for room and board. On the way we passed through the ruined city of Tiaquarraco, but could see but very little of it. Expect to go back on Friday to see it. Guaqui is a little Indian port town on the shores of Lake Titicaca. This is a most beautiful fresh water lake 12,500 feet high. It is much larger than Great Salt Lake and is navigated by large steamers. There are several kinds of fish in the lake. One is called “Mauri.” There is also a rive rin Bolivia, called “Mauri.” We spent the day visiting the strange things to be seen, and trying to get our breath, as it is extremely hard to get enough air at this altitude. Very hard to sleep at night.

Thursday, Agosto 5, 1926

Guaqui, Bolivia – Got up after a very poor night’s sleep on account of the high elevation. We passed the day as best we could. I found a great deal of interest watching the Indians, the llamas, and contemplating the beauties of wonderful Lake Titicaca. The sunset over the lake was very beautiful. I saw an Indian woman spinning yarn by hand from the vicuna wool as she shaved it off of the hide of one that had been killed. Also saw a loom where a vicuna manta is being woven; also a finished manta for which our Land Lady wanted 100 Bolivianos. It is a beautiful thing and I wish I had the money to buy it. This is the finest wool I have ever seen and an article made from it will last for generations. Moth will not attack this wool. There are many wonderful things here I would like to take home, but “Money” I have not.

Friday, Agosto 6, 1926

Guaqui and Traquanaco, Bolivia – We went to Traquanaco ruins. Found them most wonderful. Door to grave-yd 6 x 9 x 1-1/2. One solid stone with door way cut through. Temple of Sun covers 5 acres. 30 stone slabs or pillars on each side, some of them being 10 x 12 x 3 ft. Door to Temple of Sun one solid stone 4 x 12 x 1-1/2 ft. Doorway cut through 2 ft 8 in by 6 ft. Richly carved, some of the figures same as I have seen in Mex. Steps to this temple have one stone 10 x 12 x 3 feet. Adjacent is another temple which is cruciform and is now about 60 ft high. Has inner court Neaxis [?] a large stone called sacrificial stone 12 x 12 ft by 14 inches. large monolithic image 3 x 3 x 16 feet is So. of cruz. temple. Richly carved and very Egyptian looking. Large stone in field is 24 x 8 x 5 ft. 1/2 mile or so. W. of this grop is another large temple with the largest sone we found. Three facing inner court. Center one 6 x 8 x 25, 4 seats carved in it. 12 square holes at back. Large slab in front 25 f 8 in x 17 x 4 ft 6 in. Side stones with 3 seats each 21 x 15 x 4 ft.

Saturday, Agosto 7, 1926

Traquanaco, Bolivia – We stayed in a little hotel and did not have a very good night. Up early and at the ruins again. We took pictures. Start named place, saw many beautiful and strange carvings. Two crosses which we photographed, also compare L. large millstone [sketch] 6 x 6 x 1 ft. I am greatly impressed with these ruins. I think them very old, but many things like ruins in different parts of Mexico. large Indian town right on ruins. They were having celebration and danced in gay colors and strange costumes. There is no mistaking the fact that they are all the same people all over Americas. Returned to Guaqui and took steamer Yanqui [?] 60 years on Lake. Beautiful Lake Titicaca. Snow capped mts in background. Passed “Isla del Sol” and “Isla de las Lunas.” Had my grips “picked.” Got all back. Arrived at [?] at 11, took train to Juliaca, arrived at 1 a.m.

Sunday, Agosto 8, 1926

Juliaca and Sicuani, Peru – Had a fair night’s rest. Left a grip each and took train for Cuzco at 9 a.m. Passed through a remarkable country and saw many strange sights. Many llamas and alpacas. Crossed many rivers. There are many sheep and cattle, but they and all the land and all the Indians are in the hands of great land owners. The Indian is in just as great peonage an dpoverty as they ever have been in Mexico. The dress of the Indian changes as we travel north but their faces and habits are about the same. Bright colors. Flat hats with curtains on two sides. All wear home spun woolen clothing. We traveled long distance at base of snow capped mountains. La Raya pass 14,130 feet. Today my wedding day 26 years. Have thought often of May and the Children.

Monday, Agosto 9, 1926

Sicuani and Cuzco, Peru – We stayed last night in the Hotel Furocaul [?] in Sicuani, four in one room. Fair night. Left at 9 a.m. and had a very wonderful ride to Cuzco. It was down a river most of the way, and the mountains on either side are simply “Stupendous.” Perfectly barren of all tree life, but they are covered with grass from base to summit. Also from base to summit they are cultivated in terraced patches by the Indians. Nowhere else have I seen Mts like them. The dress of the Indians changes somewhat as we advance. We reached Cuzco at 4 p.m. It looks to be the oldest thing alive. Many large Churches. Architecture all Spanish Colonial, and the sagging tile roofs like like they were a part of the landscape. Got very comfortable room at private rooming house, after trying out Hotel Colon which we found unbearable on account of filth and mice.

Tuesday, Agosto 10, 1926

Cuzco, Peru – I had one of the best night’s rest I have had on the trip. We started out early to visit the ruins and went first to great fortress on Mt. to north of city. Hill is surrounded by three walls, one above another. Walls of hue stone laid up dry and although irregular, so closely fitted a knife blade cannot be inserted. Some of the stones are at least 10 x 12 x 20 ft. Back of this great fortress on another hill is whatis called the “Trono del Inca.” A seat is cut in the living rock, looking directly East and towards a great snow capped peak in the distance. Next, “Bano del Inca” with baths and seats cut in living rock. Next, “Bano de la Nuesta Reyna” same. Next, “Chunicana [?] Grande,” where may niches and seats are carved. “Leg of Inca” carved in rock. Tradition says tunnel from here to main Plaza of City 1500 feet below, mile away. We saw mouth of this tunnel and steps that led down into it. Steps split by lightning. We visited “Templde of Sun” in convent of St. Domingo. Rock of 12 corners. Calle Triunfo.

Wednesday, Agosto 11, 1926

Cuzco, Peru, S.A. – Spent the day visiting points of interest in the city, and also made another visit to ruins of Fort to North. We find outcroppings of Inca and pre-Inca walls all over the city. The pre-Incas built much better and used larger stones. In some places the pre-Inca walls are covered with an inferior wall. A great many of the streets of the present city are just the same as in the Inca city at the time of the conquest, and parts of the original Inca walls can be traced great distances along some of the streets. The temples of the sun, the Moon, and the Stars as they are preserved in the Monastery of Santo Domingo are very interesting and the workmanship is superb. We took pictures today of the rock with 12 corners, on Triunfo Street.

Thursday, Agosto 12, 1926

Cuzco, Peru – We left Cuzco at 7.30 a.m. for ruins of Allantabamba, 65 kilometers from Cuzco. It was a beautiful ride, passing through one beautiful mountain valley. We dropped several thousand feet down a great canon before we reached Allantabamba, which is located at the forks of two rivers. The principal buildings of interest are on a rocky point 500 ft high and might have been a combined fortress and temple. The terraced walls are built as at Cuzco, but on top there are great stones that must have been part of the temple that are the same as Tiahunaco. Some of the stones were 18 x 4-1/2 x 3-1/2, 16 x 8 x 6 (six of them making a solid front.) There were many others very large. Our time here was limited to 2 hrs, so we did not get to visit all. Returned to Cuzco at 5 p.m.

Friday, Agosto 13, 1926

Cuzco and Juliaca, Peru – We left Cuzco for Juliaca at 7.30 a.m. Made in one day what it had taken us two days to travel when we went to Cuzco, and we arrived in Juliaca a little after 6 p.m. We took room at same hotel we had stayed at before and had a fair night’s rest. Cloudy all day and felt like it might snow when we went to bed. We passed through a wonderful grazing country all day for sheep, llamas, alpacas, etc., and we saw thousands of head of them.

Saturday, Agosto 14, 1926

Juliaca and Arequipa, Peru – It had snowed during the night and the hills were white when we got up this morning. had a fair night’s rest. We took train for Arequipa at 8.45 a.m. Wonderful ride. Mountains high and barren of all trees, but covered with grass. Thousands of llamas and alpacas. Continental Divide at Crucero, alt. 4460 high. Indians there selling a grouse as large as a chicken. At above 13,000 we passed tow large lakes, with a high ridge between them, along which train ran. Called “Lagunillas.” Beautiful sight with high snow capped mountains around them. Saw several bands of “vicuna.” Descent on western side through a more barren country. Arrived at Arequipa at 6.30. Located at base of Mt. Misti.

Sunday, Agosto 15, 1926

Arequipa and Mollendo – Had a fair night’s rest and left at 8 a.m. for Mollendo. I have never seen a drier nor more desolate country than from Arequipa to Mollendo. Below Arequipa there is a wide table land. Looks like it had never rained there. Covered in every direction with large crescent-shaped sand dunes made by wind always blowing from South. From this table the descent is very precipitous to the sea. No provision is made for culverts in the Ry falls on the mountainside. Mollendo is a little place but beautifully situated on a bluff above the sea. Took room at Gran Hotel. Good room and meals.